Day one: the old town
Start in Alfama before the day-trippers arrive, climb to the Miradouro de Santa Luzia and let yourself get lost on the way down. Fado in the evening, if you like it moody.
Day two: Belém and the river
Pastéis de Belém for breakfast, the monastery, then a long lunch by the water.
Day three: Sintra
Take an early train and see Pena Palace first. Be back in the city for sunset at Senhora do Monte.
Where to stay
Chiado or Príncipe Real put you between the sights and the best restaurants.
